Not the slightest touch. In the Nièvre, I didn’t prepare anything.
Facing this blank page, the Great Crossing of the Morvan traces a route that is timely.
The name has something epic, an adventure scent.
I was promised the desert, the rain, the hunger. I jump enthusiastically under the foliage of this wild forest.
The great crossing of the Morvan
In the Serein valley, the water playing in the rocks chuckles. The downpour woke up the coolness of the forest.
Mosses, ferns, uprooted trees everywhere. The forest shelters me and crackles under the raindrops.
For my first bivouac, the owls hoot, I feel welcomed. Feels like I’m back home. I sleep in the company of fearless spiders who have sneaked into the tent.
The forest and the bocage light up under the gaps of a granite sky. I’m sheltering under the trees until the downpour ends.
AT Saint-Germain-des-champs, the wind playing in the badly secured sheets disturbs the silence of this ghost village. All the shutters are closed. No one to turn to for water. I spend a restless night in a log cabin. Strong wind at the edge of crescent lake.
Like most lakes in the region, it is an artificial reservoir for the production of electricity.
In the shelter behind the piles of the dam, Maxime takes his lunch break, refreshed by the bad drizzle. He speaks with respect of the Morvan, poor land, refuge land, hostile land; with tenderness of the parent material, the Morvan granite.
Under a charged and luminous sky, small white spots – cows – dot a hedgerow landscape crisscrossed with hedges crossed by paths. The valleys suggest the next peaks to climb.
A cabinet of general poetry
AT Marigny-l’Église, Aurélien, in front of my tired face, pulls out a prescription book.
The Crescent post office-grocery store-bar is also general poetry cabinet, as indicated by the small blue enamel plaque that intrigued me at the entrance to the establishment!
Here is my prescription:
” The next time I come into the world,
I will transcribe every minute from the start,
I won’t eat just one without thinking first
And, if necessary, I will stop time for him to wait for my decision.
Learn after each meal ».
I immediately feel better. In the event of a relapse, I can always call the voice server (03 71 42 00 77, call not surcharged): ” For Baudelaire, type 1, for La Fontaine, type 2… ”
Treating the problem of medical deserts with humor
The Nièvre is a medical desert. Chateau-Chinon, the first sub-prefecture in France without a general practitioner.
By creating the cabinets of general poetry, Jean Bojko, poet to the President of the General Council, decided to treat the problem with humor. I really want to meet him.
I’m lucky ! The city of Corbigny celebrates street arts. For the occasion, two general poetry cabinets will be inaugurated.
Jean Bojko receives me in the premises of PROOF OF TEST, the company he works with. Despite his political functions as advisor to the President of the General Council, he takes a poetic view of the Nièvre (also watch the video above).
” At the level of the General Council, I always say that there is a project that would be simple: if we managed to make all the people of Nièvre understand that we must be nice to all the people who come from outside. .. Between us, we can be a little cowardly, all that, because … but let’s be nice with all the people who come from outside. So what does that mean?
Imagine in Corbigny, there are foreigners passing by, Dutch people … Rather than looking at them a little bit of traviole, all that, people arrive, settle in the cafe, they drink a beer, it’s already paid! And then that it becomes something current!
There are some who cannot afford it, but there are some who always can afford to pay a blow to another … And finally it is known outside. “But it’s incredible there, when you come, you don’t pay what you pay.” It would do a huge communication thing!
That is to say that people are nice … Enough is it huh? These are small details because the way of perceiving a territory, it plays on details. If you are well received, you like the territory.
Sometimes it’s easy, huh? A little curiosity, we were talking about walking, there, do we need to worry about preparing everything for everyone, to manage everything, the paths where people go for a walk, manage the places where people will stop, put their car, thing …
You end up believing that that’s the bottom line, when in the end it’s not the bottom line. It’s not the fact: “will I be able to park in the countryside, if there’s a parking lot I park”, it’s the fact of wanting to go in the countryside, and d ‘see things there … So much is happening …
You see, for example last night, there was the total eclipse of the moon!
To be continued…
Diagonal of the void: what unusual places encountered on the road?
READ ALSO: France, this exotic country …
Slow tourism in France: can you take an exotic trip in your own country?
Aveyron: Arvieu, a village where no one wants to leave!
Find all the articles in our series dedicated to the Diagonal of the Void, with Mathieu Mouillet, by clicking here.
About the Author
Mathieu Mouillet has been roaming the planet for over 15 years. In 2001, he went on a bike to record world music. The journey will take 18 months and 25,000 km across Asia, South America and Africa.
Pens, cameras and recorders become his traveling companions and his work tools, between two consulting missions for actors of e-tourism.
From Cape Verde to South Africa, he writes and illustrates a dozen guides for a site that wants to become the travel Facebook. A regrettable failure but an enlightening experience.
Swallowing the kilometers without taking the time to savor the landscape makes him want to be slow. For 18 months, he crossed France on foot across the diagonal of the void to verify that “the journey begins at home”.
The account of this experience, ” The diagonal of the void, an exotic trip to France »Appeared in 2018.
He shares his travel diaries on his blog: www.lesvoyagesdemat.com.
From Ireland to Botswana, from Cuba to Uzbekistan, the globe trotter has written and photographed in over 45 countries. Favoring trips without engines and meetings at destinations, he believes in the idea that ” the real traveler does not know where he is going ”
For further : www.lesvoyagesdemat.com/blog-voyage-france/